Friday, June 19, 2015

How to make your own clock!


I always get wonderful comments on my clock!  So I have decided to write directions, so you also can make your own!

You will need:

1 Clock
12 each 5 X 7 X 1 Wood Blocks
Mod Podge Matte
Vinyl Cut (24.143 X 16.342) “TIME Spent with Family Is worth every SECOND”

I purchased my Clock from  When I priced clocks that size in town, the quotes I was receiving was over $100.

This is what I purchased from Steebar September, 2014 (so the prices might have changed)

Item SKU QTY Price
14” Clock Hands for High Torque Clock Motors HT-8 1 16.75
7/16” High Torque Mini Quartz Clock Movement for Large Hands HT-Mini-A-7 1 14.95
Mini Quartz Clock Motor Wall Mount Cup Wall-Cup 1 5.95

STOP - If you are not crafty, you could always just purchase this Photo Frame Wall Clock, it’s only 40.00 for the whole thing.

If you are Crafty, follow on!

Step One – Order and Mount your Clock

Order your clock.  I am assuming that you are making a clock the same size as I did.  You will need that heavy duty motor, because the hands are 14” long!  Mount your clock on the wall when it comes in.

After I completed the Clock, the overall size is approx. 44” high and 43” wide.

Step Two – Make your Wood Transfers

While you are waiting for the clock to come in, create your wood transfers.  My husband cut 12 each 5 X 7 X 1 pieces of wood and sanded and stained them for me.  I have been told you can go to Lowes and they will cut them for you.  You could also paint them if you don’t want a antique look.

While he was doing that, I found my photos, sized them to 5 X 7.  I choose to print them out in black and white, in Reverse (or Mirrored) on plain ol’ printer paper, from a LASER printer.  If you don’t own a laser printer, you could always take your photo’s to a printer like Kinko’s and have them print them out from a LASER.

You can search wood transfer in you tube and find MANY ways and products to use.  I choose to use Mod Podge, because I had it. 

Here is a great video

Step Three – Hang or Apply your Vinyl Cut

Create your Vinyl Cut or I am happy to cut this for you.  I do offer this in my Etsy Store.

Here are my favorite “How to apply vinyl Videos from YouTube

Easy Way
Larger Decals

I am looking forward to seeing your creations!  Please post your photos back to this blog!

Tuesday, April 28, 2015

How to place Vinyl on a 12 X 12 Tile

Aunt RuthEasel BackEasel Side


Thought I would share, something I learned about these tiles. I had to make 8 of these in the last few days. First of all they take a couple of days to make. Although beautiful, they are a labor of love.

ruin copic

Because most of them are all about marriages, I truly enjoy doing them.  It gives me a opportunity to pray for the couple as I make them.

Step One

I have tried several types of paint and tools to color the edges and have found my Copic to be my favorite method.  I use the brush tip to cover all the edges, flip it over and color approximately a 1/4 to 1/5  frame around the outside of the tile.

Be aware….you WILL loose your beautiful brush tip.  I have one sit aside for just this.  And need to keep a supply of tips on hand, maybe, or maybe not.  I have a refill on order, when it comes in, I might be able to use a brush with the ink, NOT using the marker.  Will let you know.

Step Two

This is my first, that is not a "Family Name" Tile. I have found some easy ways to do this. You know, that ol trial and error thing, we all have to go through.  Hopefully, I will save you some of my frustrations I had to go through.

It will be my example, since I am in the middle of making it.

Well, first of all, I cut the vinyl in 2 passes (Oracal 631).  Next,  I clean the surface with alcohol, being careful to stay away from the edges because my Copic is a alcohol ink.

Weed your vinyl.

Step Three

Then I put the clear transfer tape on top and squeegee it down. Now I have learned to let this sit over-night, IF, I want to make my life easy.  If you take the time to let it sit, you will NOT fight picking up small pieces.

Step Four

Tile with transfer

After you have let the clear transfer tape sit for several hours (my choice is over night), Squeegee it again, and place on your tile.

By doing it this way, I can move the vinyl around the tile before making it permanent.

Now....Let it sit on the tile at least 1/5 hour, taking this step, lets me remove the transfer paper, without disturbing those small details.

As an example, the skinny frame on the outside, if I don’t wait, those will pull up when I remove the transfer tape, always goes very very smooth if I take that extra 1/5 hour letting the transfer tape settle on the vinyl and settle on the tile.  Often, I will let this sit over-night.

Step Five

Remove your transfer tape.  Now, if I am in a hurry, of course I can pull this off sooner.  As an example, it’s only been about 1/5 hour and look at what I am dealing with.

tile transfer tape peeling up

I prayed for patience….and let this sit for a couple of hours.  So much easier.  I never have to fight it this way.  I usually let this sit over night.

Love that scraper and those dentist tools!

family and tools

Step Six

Ok, ready to glue on my Easel backs.  I am using a GE Clear Silicone and a doohickey husband grabbed from the garage.  You can get little bottles, but buying them large is a bit of a savings.  I get about 3 tiles out of one bottle of Silicone.

Notice the black “paint” around the back of the tile.  I do this, because I don’t like anything showing between the easel back and the tile.

Notice the black arrow at the top center of the tile?  I do this, to make sure that when I put the easel back on, that I am putting the back on in the right direction.

family tiles glue tool back of tile

I apply the silicone about 1/5 inch from the edge.  don’t get to close, or it will squeeze out onto the sides…and it’s near impossible to get off.    I am just learning how to use that doohickey that the silicone goes into….so make sure, if you use one, you get someone to teach you how to use it.  Hubby is still coming in and guiding me. 

family and glue

Step Seven

Ok, Silicone on and ready for the back.  I match up the black arrow and the top of the easel back.  I get my backs at  Now, You WILL be excited to know how inexpensive these are, but hold that feeling, because it won’t last long when you see the shipping costs.  I think I ordered 20, which adds under 4.00 costs to each tile.  The shipping for these is horrible.  Of course, if you had to ship one to a customer, It would problem be the same price, as the box would have to be at least 14 X 14.

family and easel on

Easel BackEasel Side

Step Eight

Ok, I make sure the edges are are lined up and the top of the back is on the top of the tile.  I place a towel under the tile, because if I scoot the tile (which I don’t want to do) I want to protect the vinyl side of the tile.  Probably don’t need to do…but I just feel better doing this.

family and weight

ok, I have moved my tile to a TV tray in the living room….because this can’t be touched or bumped for 24 hours.  I place a cloth under the vinyl side of the tile, place the tile that is now glued to it’s back and cover that with a towel.  Now I need weight!  I usually place a big heavy cast iron pot I have on top and put a 100 oz container of modge podge in the pot.  But I have all these tiles ready for delivery, and that should be enough weight.

Hope this helps someone!  I know it was a learning process for me.

Aunt Ruth4


In 24 hours, my tile will be done, and I will come back and post a photo of it.  Not the best photos in this post, but good enough for you to get an idea how to do!

Hugs!  Robin